Sunday, April 26, 2009

La Última Semana

Since we came home from all of our traveling, the weeks have flown by. It seems that time has been racing by as we get nearer and nearer to heading home. In less than a week, I'll be back in America. I can't wait to be back, but I thought I'd give at least one more update on my life in Spain before getting back to see everyone I've missed so much.

Getting back into the swing of things after spring break was a little tough. After all that traveling, these last three weeks of school weren't at the top of my priority list. However, we've all put our noses back to the grindstone for the last bit of the semester. This coming week we'll have finals, and we've had a couple papers too, but nothing too rough. My focus has mostly been seeing the sights of Madrid, revisiting all of my favorite spots, and enjoying Spain for all it's worth.

Our friend Ally, on spring break from her semester in London, spent a weekend in Madrid, and it was great to have her around. Nights out, showing her the city, and making sure she experienced things like tapas and sangria were a must. By the time she returned to London, life in Madrid had settled back to normal. In true Spanish fashion, the Wesleyan students here have been making an effort spend as much time out on the town as possible. I even stayed out until 4 am one night, visiting "discotecas" with friends. To be honest, Madrid nightlife isn't really my style, but it's an expected part of the culture, and I thought I should sample it. It's funny how much Madrileños really embrace going out. Even my elderly Señora seems shocked when we get home before 1 am, and encourages us to go out all the time.

I think it's these little things I'll miss the most about Spain. There are so many small quirks I've come to embrace about the culture and the city of Madrid. I thought it might be fun to look back and remember some of them. It's all the little things like:
-the sound of the loudspeakers on the metro saying "El próximo estación..." and the annoying street musicians in the train cars
-Isabel's insistence that we eat second, third, and fourth helpings at dinner
-my church that I've been attending here in Madrid
-the friendly doorman at our apartment building
-the way people in Madrid seem to be constantly walking their dogs, especially in Retiro park
-eating bread with every meal, and fruit for dessert
-the way everything is cooked with olive oil and fresh garlic over here
-people you barely know greeting you with a kiss on each cheek
-people driving motorcycles on the sidewalks, and just driving crazily in general
-terribly grumpy waiters who laugh at you when you try to speak their language
-the way everyone bundles up completely and has umbrellas out at the slightest sign of rain, snow, cool weather, or even fog
-chocolate y churros, café con leche, and milk that comes in boxes and is kept on the cabinet
-the way no one in Spain has dryers and the laundry is always hanging off the balconies
-hearing the Spanish kids speak better than I do, even after four months, about things like Ratoncito Perez (he's a mouse who is the Spanish version of the tooth fairy)

...and so many other things!

So, as I wrap up this last weekend in Spain, I'm looking back and loving the fun and great opportunities I've had. At the same time, I can't wait to be home. I've been missing everyone a lot, and I'll see you all soon! Hasta luego...

Monday, April 13, 2009

Semana Santa- El Viaje Grande

Where do I begin? The past eleven days have been spent in three countries, traveling for our spring break, and I don't know what to write about first. I guess I'll begin by wishing everyone a Blessed Easter. No matter how far apart all my family and friends were scattered this year, it's wonderful to remember that the power of Christ's Resurrection reaches us all.

As far as my family goes, we certainly were all over the world this year. As my sister and brother-in-law headed to Honduras for a missions trip with their church, Emily and I set off for over a week of adventures in Germany, Austria, and Italy. We managed to pack quite a lot into a short time, so don't be surprised if this is a pretty long blog entry. :)

After flying into Frankfurt, we took a train directly to our first stop, Rothenburg. A quaint medieval town, it more than lived up to the recommendations of my family members who have been there. I instantly knew that I loved Germany when I got there, and was glad to have a couple days to explore and enjoy it. The town is surrounded completely by the old town wall, and most of its buildings date back to the 12th-15th centuries. Emily and I stayed in a cool hostel that was in a converted old mill building, and woke up to perfect weather our first real morning of vacation. We explored the wall, and did the major sightseeing. This included going to the town hall, the market square with its fun clock tower, Saint Jakob's church, and the castle gardens. Rothenburg is also a big Christmas town, so we spent lots of time in and out of its many Christmas-themed stores. The most incredible one was the Kathe Wolfhart store, which seemed more like a forest or a Christmas village because of all the decorations. We got our fair share of souvenirs in all of Rothenburg's cute little stores. One night in Rothenburg, we also took the Night Watchman's Tour, a fun walk around the city narrated by one of Rothenburg's "medieval" watchmen.

Throughout our time in Germany, we also tried to take advantage of all the delicious food. We ate and drank tons of bratwurst, sauerkraut, pretzels, and great beer. Although Spanish food is delicious, I felt as though I could eat German food forever. Maybe because of my heritage, Germany seemed to really click with everything I enjoy and am interested in. I'd really like to spend more time there soon, and get a chance to see more of the country.

Our next stop during our all-too-short time in Germany was Munich. The Marienplatz, it's main square, the Frauenkirche, a big, beautiful church, and the Residenz, its imperial palace, were some of the highlights we hit. We also went to the famous Hofbrauhaus, a beer garden, for liters of great beer. It was a ton of fun to sit in that atmosphere with a polka band playing, listening to Germans singing, and laughing at the antics of our waiter. Definitely a great night.

While staying in Munich, we took a day trip to Salzburg, just over the border into Austria. Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart, as well as the setting for "The Sound of Music," so there were lots of great things to see. We went to see Mozart's birth house and another house he lived in later, and walked around the city, checking out the sights. Some of them were familiar from the movie, and we got a chance to really hear about the behind-the-scenes parts of it by taking the Sound of Music Tour. The tour took us to the various houses used in filming, the gazebo, the wedding church, and on a long drive through the mountains... gorgeous. After a wonderful day in Salzburg, we went back for the evening in Munich.

The next morning, we headed by train to Italy. The train ride cut through the beautiful Austrian countryside, and I really enjoyed it. We arrived in Rome in the early evening, with plenty of time to check into our hostel and meet our friend Ally, who's currently studying in London. She was just getting started on her travels, and we really enjoyed the chance to spend some time with a friend from home. We grabbed some delicious pizza and turned in for the night, because the next morning we woke up bright and early (I mean REALLY early) to go wait for the Vatican to open. It paid off, as we avoided most of the lines, and got to see all the fantastic artwork in the Vatican Museum. The Sistine Chapel was definitely a favorite of mine, and I was very much in awe of the talent mankind has been given by the Creator. As it was Easter weekend, St. Peter's was closed in the morning, and ridiculously crowded in the afternoon, so we just viewed the outside. We also went to the Spanish steps, the Trevi fountain, and the Pantheon that day, all of which were lovely. The weather in Rome was warm and beautiful, so we also spent lots of time eating gelato. I've never tasted such good ice cream in my life. We also had a nice dinner that night, some delicious pasta and Italian wine. At this point, I think I'm getting a bit to used to delicious foods from other cultures... now worries though, seventeen days from now, I know I'll be thrilled to sink my teeth into a good old American burger.

The next day was devoted to Ancient Rome. It was amazing to walk around the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Palatine, and the entire ancient city. It was another great testament to the achievements of humankind throughout the ages, and the history major in me loved seeing all of the ancient ruins, some of which were incredibly well-preserved. Caesar's house and the original Senate building were fantastic. Walking around all day took a lot of energy out of us, so we grabbed some food and headed back to our hostel that evening to relax.

Our original plan had been to travel across Italy and spend time with a friend of Emily's dad's who lives in Silvi, a small harbor town on Italy's east coast. However, after issues with getting in touch with our host, as well as the fact that the earthquakes Italy had been experiencing were very near to our destination, we decided to change our plans. With our Eurail passes, we had the flexibility to instead take a train to Florence. This meant we got to spend more time with our friend Ally as well. We stayed in a town called Prato, in a nicer hotel (thanks to Emily's dad), which was right along the edge of a pretty river with a trail along the edge. For these last few days, it was nice to stay in one place and then take day trips to other nearby Tuscan towns.

We started with Florence, were we saw the major sights like Michelangelo's David, the Duomo, a beautiful church, and the other famous churches, plazas, and buildings. The next day, we took a day trip to Siena. After our busy days in Rome and Florence, we took a slower pace in Siena. The town is a smaller, walled city, with a great atmosphere. We saw its major town hall and a few sights like churches. Most of the day, though, was spent relaxing on Il Campo, the large central square. The weather was gorgeous, as it was throughout the trip, so we worked on some homework, ate gelato (I know, it's a common theme...), and people-watched. It seemed as though the entire town turned out on the square to enjoy the day. Another nice thing about our Siena day was finding an internet cafe that had skype. We were able to call our parents and wish family a Happy Easter, as well as catch up and share our travels with them.

Easter day was spent with a day trip to Volterra, another great town. Due to train schedules, we didn't end up making it to any of the scheduled masses at its couple of churches, but Em and I spent some time reading the Easter Gospels and celebrating all the same. Volterra was one of my favorite cities. Emily had been very interested in going there because one of her favorite book series takes place there, and a movie is being filmed about it. After working in those locations we've read about, we walked around basically the entire town. Another gorgeous little town surrounded by a city wall, Volterra is at the top of the hill, and the countryside of Tuscany spreads out at its feet, creating tons of great views. Additionally, Volterra has some Roman remains, such as a half-crumbled theater. It is a huge producer of alabaster, so we went from shop to shop and found some great souvenirs and gifts. Top that off with a mini "train" ride around the town, an awesome castle or two, and one last chance to enjoy Italian food, and it was a great day.

The next day, we headed to Milan and caught a plane back to Madrid. It was nice to come back to a delicious home-cooked meal and Isabel's two-year-old granddaughters to play with. Now, the realization that these are my last seventeen days in Madrid is sinking in, and I'm both sad and thrilled to be coming home so soon. I've loved being here in Spain, and I'm hoping to soak everything up as much as possible before I leave, in spite of finals and papers looming just around the corner. What amazing experiences I've had here in Spain! Now more than ever, I'm thankful for the many, many wonderful things I've been able to see during my time in Europe. I look forward to seeing and talking to everyone back in America soon! Til then...

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Mi Madre y Tia Vinieron a Madrid

It seems as though I haven't written in forever, and there's a lot to catch up on before I head off on Friday for ten days in Germany and Italy. I've spent a lot of time in Madrid recently, but it's certainly been busy. Teachers are throwing a lot of work in our direction as the semester nears its end, but more importantly a couple weekends ago, I had visitors!

My mom and Aunt Susan came to see me for five days, and it was a blast. I really enjoyed showing them around, and sharing a lot of the things I've learned about Spanish culture and life with them. After picking them up at the airport, we started with a lunch with my Senora, Isabel. She made roasted lamb, a traditional dish from her hometown, Segovia. It was seriously a feast. It was also wonderful to show them where I live and introduce my Spanish "mom" to my real one. Afterward, although they were jet-lagged and stuffed full of food, I kept them busy all day. We walked to Retiro Park, checked out the Fundacion where I attend school, and saw all the major sights of Old Madrid: Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, etc. That night, we got some cokes on a terrace in Plaza Santo Domingo, near their hotel, and then attempted to have a tapas meal. Although tapas are a traditional part of Spanish cuisine, none of the nearby restaurants were too cooperative. We still managed to have some good food and a good time, although I frustrated a waitress or two with my interesting Spanish skills. Either way, it was fun to start teaching them about the great food and wine Spain has to offer.

Friday morning, all rested up, we set out for our big day of Madrid tourism. Our first stop was Plaza de Oriente, to see the beautiful gardens and royal theater. We then went to Palacio Real (the Royal Palace). It had beautiful rooms and art, and was one of my favorites that I've seen here in Europe. Then, we toured the more modern Cathedral nearby, and went up in the dome for a view of the city. Afterwards, we walked back to Plaza Mayor for some souvenir shopping, and we also got a few bocadillos (Spanish sandwiches), which later became our picnic lunch near the Prado. The weather was gorgeous all weekend, so we enjoyed walking around the city and soaking up the sun. After lunch, we the Prado, the most famous of Spain's three major art museums. We rested up in the evening, and went out that night for a traditionally late Spanish dinner, followed by a flamenco show. I enjoyed the show a lot, especially as it was the second one I'd seen and I had opportunity to compare it to the one in Sevilla. It was slightly more modern, and mixed some blues or jazz influence with the traditional flamenco. I was very glad my mom and aunt got the opportunity to see this important part of Spanish culture, not to mention trying the Sangria that came with the show.

Our day Saturday was a great one as well. We took a day trip to Toledo, and I think we all enjoyed getting out of the big city and seeing a more traditional Spanish town. We saw Toledo's beautiful cathedral, did lots of shopping, and went to the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. I also got to show them where I had lived during my first few days in Spain, when the Fundacion brought us to Toledo for orientation. For lunch, we tried paella, a traditional Spanish dish with rice and seafood. We also walked along a river trail in the evening, stopping for a picnic dinner along the historical "Don Quixote Route."

Sunday, back in Madrid, we went to my usual church, and then to El Rastro, Madrid's big marketplace. That afternoon, we another important part of Spanish culture, a bullfight. While it was interesting to see, I wasn't sure I enjoyed the bullfight. It was certainly a cultural experience, but not quite what I expected. In the end, it wasn't as impressive as I'd expected, and I couldn't quite see the point. Still, I was very glad to have seen it.

Sunday was an exciting day for another reason as well. We received an email in the morning, letting us know that my brother, Mark, was now engaged to his wonderful girlfriend, Emili. Although we wished we could be there to celebrate in person, we were very glad for him!

Our last day together, Monday, was one on which we headed out of the city again. We took a train up to the little mountain city of Cercedilla, where a professor had recommended some hiking trails. The pine forests and mountain streams, as well as the beautiful views of the peaks, made this day my favorite. We enjoyed a picnic lunch and a full day of sunshine and fresh air. Upon returning to Madrid, we had a nice dinner on Plaza Mayor, stopped in a couple more stores for shopping, and then headed back to the hotel. I had purchased some authentic cava (Spanish sparkling wine) in Barcelona, in order to celebrate their visit, so we spent the evening chatting and drinking it. It was a perfect closing to a great weekend. I loved getting to spend time with both my mom and my aunt, and was so thankful they got to make the trip over here and experience this great country. As I looked at it once again from a foreigner's perspective through their eyes, I realized that I've grown to really love Spain, and to know and understand it more than I imagined I would.

Seeing them definitely also made me anticipate coming home all the more. I haven't been too homesick, but I miss all the wonderful people that make my life so great. It's hard to believe that I'll be home now in less than a month. With a trip to Germany and Italy starting tomorrow, the beginning of April will fly by. After that, a few short weeks, and my time in Spain will draw to a close. It's hard to believe it's gone so quickly, but I can't wait to see everyone. Until then, I'll just say that I miss everyone, and I wish all a very happy and blessed Easter! I'm looking forward, in the midst of all of these travels, to celebrating the joy of the Resurrection that I share with family and friends, no matter how near or far they happen to be.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Al Sur y Una Cultura Nueva

This past week, after a quick turn-around from Portugal, we headed off to Andalucia, in the south of Spain, for one of the trips planned as part of our program. Andalucia, with its beautiful weather, strong Muslim cultural influences, and fame for flamenco, represents what most foreigners are really thinking of when they call to mind their idea of Spain. It's certainly different from Madrid, and I was very excited to experience this part of my host country. Our trip was based around the route taken by American tourist and author Washington Irving a couple hundred years ago, so we headed by bus for a week in Córdoba, Sevilla, and Granada.

Our first stop, Córdoba, found us relieved to get off the bus and stretch our legs. We spent some time exploring the pretty river walk before lunch, soaking up the sun and 80-degree Andalucian weather. Then we met up for lunch at a traditional restaurant, getting our first experience with Salmorejo, which is a "salad" made of tomatoes, which our professors insist is NOT soup. But it's basically cold, creamy, light tomato soup. Not my favorite, but once you get used to it, it's not bad. I also found out on this trip that I really like calamari.

After lunch, we headed to the city's main attraction, its famous mezquita-catedral. It's a Muslim mosque that was partially converted into a Cathedral after the Catholics expelled the Moors from the peninsula. We got our first exposure to Muslim architecture, which is absolutely amazing. The whole place was filled with row upon row of double-arched columns with red and white stripes. Also, the walls and ceilings in most Muslim structures, as the culture is opposed to any sort of figures or visual representations of God, are covered in plant-like, geometrical plaster carvings. The detail on every surface with the beautiful tile, plaster, and wood ceilings, is truly astounding. It's also interesting to compare cultures based on the values they convey with their architecture. Muslim buildings are designed to be organic, with gardens, patios, and smoothly flowing water. They are not built to last for centuries, as stone Gothic cathedrals were, but instead are meant to grow and change with the various rulers who allow work on them. The columns used are often recycled from earlier structures as well, and therefore don't always match. It was strange to note the absence of art depicting religious figures, and how that changed in the part converted into a Gothic Cathedral. The blending and interacting of the two cultures that influenced this part of Spain was evident in each detail.

After that stop, we made our way to Sevilla, checked into our hotel, and did some exploring for our first night. It was quite the adventure to try to experiment with local specialties at a nearby restaurant. On top of pretty bad service, it was harder than usual to understand our waitress, as most Andalucians have a pretty heavy accent. Then, we stopped for some ice cream, and also ended up trying one of the oranges that are on the trees all over the streets of Andalucia. A waiter said we could, but I wouldn't suggest it. They're definitely more for decoration than taste... one of the most sour things I've ever had. However, it made for a humorous night before we headed back to the hotel.

The next day, we fit in a lot of educational sight-seeing. The great thing about these Fundacion trips it that we get to bring our professors with us as tour guides, who also happen to be a lot of fun. We saw more Moorish architecture and gardens at the Alcazares Reales, explored Barrio Santa Cruz, and went to Sevilla's Catedral, which is actually the biggest cathedral in Europe. All were great sights and experiences, followed up by a fantastic several-course lunch on the Fundacion.
During our free time that day, we decided to rent a paddle boat on the Guadalquivir River, which made for a perfect, fun, hot afternoon.

That night, we all got dressed up and headed to a flamenco show, which was one of the coolest things I've seen here yet. The show included both male and female dancers, a guitarist, and a singer. All of it was indescribable. From the guitarist's fingers to the dancers' heels, I've never seen such fast, passionate movement. As a music style, flamenco really conveys a lot of the exoticness, spice, energy, and tradition that are important to Spain's culture. I absolutely loved the show.

That brought our time in Sevilla to a close, and the next stop was Granada. We really enjoyed our time here as well, from simple things like walks on the river to the spectacular views of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. We did some shopping and exploring in our free time, and had a great dinner with the entire group, as well as some fun evening conversations with our professor, Chuck. The tourism highlights were definitely the Capilla Real and the Alhambra.

The Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) is in Granada's cathedral. As Granada was the last city conquered by Ferdinand and Isabella during the Reconquista, they decided that they should by buried there. The visit to their tombs, as well as those of their family members, was awesome for a history major like me. The cathedral itself was also a work of religious art, and included a museum. Afterward, we walked up one of Granada's many hills, to an open space where there was a beautiful view of the city, mountains, and the Alhambra across the valley. It seemed a popular hangout for some of Granada's citizens, and had an interesting feel to it, with a gitano band, street vendors, and a different type of behind-the-scenes culture.

The big highlight in Granada was la Alhambra. It's a fortress built long ago by Muslim kings in Spain, changed and added to throughout the centuries. The foundations of the earliest houses remain, as well as amazing towers and palaces. The fortress as a whole is almost a city itself. The gardens, architecture, and summer palaces were all fantastic, with similar architecture to the other mosques and Moorish palaces we had seen.

After the Alhambra, it was finally time to head back to Madrid. It was a great trip,and I loved this part of Spain's culture. Now I'm back in Madrid for a while, getting back into the swing of class, and looking forward to my mom and aunt's visit this week.

Hasta luego!

Monday, March 9, 2009

Me Encanta Portugal

This past weekend, three friends and I headed to Lisbon, Portugal. It was a wonderful, relaxing trip. The weather in Portugal was perfect, and we got to see all of the main sights, without feeling too rushed or touristy.

After camping out at the airport to catch our 6 am flight, we arrived in Portugal already somewhat weary. However, upon checking into our hostel, we got a bit more excited for the trip. Rossio Hostel is by far the best hostel I've ever stayed in, with great staff, fun group events planned for the evening, delicious eggs and crepes for breakfast, an awesome atmosphere, and free coffee and tea always fresh and waiting. We took advantage of that last one before setting out to sight-see.

Lisbon is a great city to visit, because it has a very friendly atmosphere and seems far less filled with tourist traps than many places in Europe. It's slightly more off-the-beaten path, but I thought this added to its charm, rather than making it seem run down. On top of this, nearly everyone spoke either English or Spanish in addition to their Portuguese (English surprisingly being the more common choice), so we were very capable of finding out way around. Once again, being in a non-Spanish speaking country made me realize how much I've grown accustomed to using Spanish in everyday life, which is kind of a nice feeling.

Our first stop was Belem, a neighborhood on the outskirts of Madrid, where we checked off several tourist attractions. Some of these included the architecturally beautiful Jeronimos Monastery, some nice gardens, and Lisbon's most famous pastry store, where we decided we loved pasteles de nata, a distinctive Portuguese dessert. Most Portuguese people seem to live up to their national reputation of having quite a sweet tooth. We skipped a couple of the museums, simple because we were tired and didn't feel like long tours. Instead we walked out to Belem Tower, a fortress built during Portugal's age of exploration. It has been used both as a political prison and a structure for the defense of the port, but it served us, for the most part, as a place to take some beautiful (and fun) pictures. We also got to stick our hands in the other side of the Atlantic here. We then grabbed some delicious pitas for lunch and went to the Museum of Coaches, which was full of some beautiful carriages from throughout European history.

We headed back to downtown Lisbon for a bit of exploring and then some time to rest up in our hostel, since I was still going on no sleep from the night before. That evening, we splurged on a seafood dinner at an amazing local restaurant. A small, atmospheric, family-owned place, it had delicious food and an incredibly friendly owner. He insisted on showing us numerous pictures of famous singers, and we discovered that he had once been the President of Portugal's National Fado Association. "Fado" is to Portugal what Flamenco is to Spain. It's the nation's famous traditional style of music, and although it doesn't include dancing like the flamenco does, the guitar playing and singing involved are astounding. Five Fado singers took a turn at the restaurant that night, giving us an amazing show to complement our dinner. We ended up staying at the restaurant for over five hours, sitting in the candlelight and enjoying great wine, Portuguese seafood, and the powerful voices of the singers. The talent and passion was fantastic. I also really enjoyed the way everyone in the little restaurant would join in the singing from time to time. The songs, from what Portuguese I could understand, were focused on the singers' love of Lisbon, Portugal, and those in their lives. It was beautiful.

The next day began with a hike up Lisbon's tallest hill to Saint George's castle, which is very well preserved from the 11th or 12th century. It also had great views. After an unsuccessful search for Portugal's famous tile factory, we did some souvenir shopping. Then we got some pastries, fruit, bread, and cheese, and picnicked in Plaza de Pedro IV. The rest of the day was spent exploring Barrio Alto, the upper neighborhood, shopping, and grabbing some dinner. In the evening we talked with people from our hostel and chatted over coffee.

Sunday we headed back to Madrid, definitely a bit sunburned, but relaxed from a beautiful weekend. I definitely loved Portugal, a perfect spot for a weekend trip. Tomorrow I head to Andalucia for the rest of the week on a trip arranged for us by the Fundacion, which should be spectacular as well. Can't wait!

Hasta luego!

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Segovia y Otras Experiencias

A lot has happened in Madrid this week. We've finished our Midterms, stumbled upon great cultural experiences, and been treated by the Fundacion to great sights and sounds. Before my hectic month of March, which includes a crazy amount of traveling and projects due for class, begins, I thought I'd write a bit of an update...

On Wednesday, Carnaval was coming to a close. The Carnaval parade I mentioned last Saturday had been a lot of fun, and a little crazy. People had been wearing costumes all week, and randomly participating in traditions that I didn't quite understand. For instance, the transition to Lent is greeted here not only with the normal Ash Wednesday services, but also with an event called "El Entierro de Las Sardinas." That's right, The Burial Of the Sardines. Apparently, Madrilenos all dress up in mourning clothes and carry a large fish on a platter through the streets, before burying it to represent the end of the festivities. I wanted to make an effort to see this, so I headed to Plaza Mayor, where I had heard it might happen. One wild goose-chase later, I still hadn't seen the Burial of the Sardines. I'm still not really sure where it took place.

I had, on the other hand, run into the biggest crowd of Liverpool fans I've ever seen. It turns out that Wednesday evening also happened to be the Liverpool v. Real Madrid football match for some championship. It was a huge event. Plaza Mayor was entirely packed with Liverpool fans, drunk, singing, playing soccer on top of all the trash, and cheering in preparation for the game. It was ridiculous. After we had observed for a while, my friend Claire and I continued exploring, and ended up sightseeing around Plaza de Espana,
with its Don Quixote statue. No Sardines, but still a great time. We even tried roasted chesnuts from a street vendor, just to embrace the city a bit more.

Thursday evening, the Fundacion took us to a theater show called "La Gran Via... Esquina a Chueca." In all Spanish, it was hard to follow, but the general spectacle and the music were very entertaining and humorous. From what I gathered, the plot was an adaptation of an older play. In this version, the government of Madrid is rumored to be planning developing over Gran Via, Madrid's main street. The citizens of Madrid dress up as the various surrounding street names and protest, and end up saving La Gran Via. It had a huge cast, crazy costumes, and seemed to epitomize the lively nature of Spanish music and dance. Not to mention how willing Spaniards seem to be when they need to take to the streets in protest for any cause. It seems as though nearly every week one of my friends or I run into one protest or another. We've seen "manifestaciones" about labor unions, football matches, separatist autonomies, ETA, the war in Israel, communism, etc. In some ways, Spain is a very politically active country, in spite of its stereotype of apathy. A huge corruption scandal is currently uprooting members of the PP, Spain's opposition party, and I wouldn't be surprised to see a protest or too surrounding these headlines as well.

After a fun night of theater-going, we had to wake up Friday morning bright and early for a day trip to Segovia. We started out with a tour of the Royal Palace there, built by Spain's first Bourbon king. It's much more similar to Versailles than the stark Escorial, the last royal palace I went to. We also saw Segovia's famous aqueducts, which are beautiful and impressive, and date back to the Roman era of Spanish history. Then, we had some free time to sight-see around Segovia's Plaza Mayor, with its beautiful Cathedral. A smaller town, it reminded me of Toledo with its winding, narrow streets. (I'll have pictures up on Picasa soon....) It also had a spectacular view of the mountains. Toward the end of the day, we were really able to appreciate this from the top of the tallest tower of Alcazar, a fortress/castle that is old enough to have Muslim and Christian influences. It was very popular as a place of residence for Castile-Leon's royals. Segovia was a relaxing trip, and I liked the city very much. We had a chance to soak up some of the beautiful springtime sun for part of the afternoon, and try Ponche de Segovia, the city's most famous pastry. Que rico...

After getting home Saturday night, we headed out for a relaxed evening at Txoko, a new favorite bar near my house. The free tapas (appetizers that come with your drink) were delicious, and the staff was friendly, explaining various Spanish customs to us in both Spanish and English. The owners come from the Basque Country, one of Spain's northern autonomous regions with its own language, customs, and sense of nationalism. We talked with them about their culture, and realized we were benefitting from at least one element of it: Basques are famous for their delicious cooking. It was a fun night.

That brings us up to date on some of the fun little moments that remind me how different and exciting this country its. The weekends haven't had the best weather lately, so although we were planning on taking a rowboat out on the lake at Retiro, it seems like a cafeteria with a good book and some homework will be a better option for today. Especially now that I know the other Wesleyan kids better and the weather has allowed us to really take advantage of the city, the more I explore and see of Madrid, the more I love my life here. Next weekend I'm headed to Portugal, followed up quickly by a week in Andalucia. I'm sure I'll have even more to write about those amazing things, but until then, que lo paseis buen dia!

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Vida Diaria

A friend of mine, after reading my blog, told me it sounds like I'm on a four-month vacation over here. To be honest, in some ways he's right. It doesn't quite seem like I'm a part of the real world when I'm here, because of how many opportunities I've had to travel each weekend and see amazing things. This weekend, however, I'm staying in Madrid, so I thought I'd blog about what my life is really like over here between all the travels and fun.

Classes here are very interesting, but probably not as hard as my usual coursework at Wesleyan. I'm finishing up some gen. eds, and taking some courses required by the program, so not a lot of what I'm doing pertains to my major. It's nice to think about other things for a while and have a break from the inevitable heavy reading that comes with history and political science classes. Right now, I'm in a Spanish course, a cultural anthropology course, an international business ethics class, and a philosophy class about Jose Ortega y Gasset, the founder of the Fundacion. I enjoy them all, and I've been able to do tons of reading, writing, and exploring on my own, since the workload isn't too intense.

In between classes, homework, and teaching English lessons, we find time to do some pretty fun things. After school, we often head over to Cafeteria Tana for lunch or cafe con leche before going home. Each night, dinner with Isabel takes some time, and we tend to get into great discussions during sobremesa, Spain's traditional time for sitting around and talking after ever meal. The weather here in Madrid has started to truly feel like springtime. I like to go for walks to Parque del Retiro, Madrid's verison of central park. Sometimes I take my homework there and sit on the bank of the Estanque, the row-boating lake, for the whole afternoon. There's so much to see around town, and some evenings we head to cafe's or bars. One of our favorites has a quiz night on Wednesdays, which we tried out for the first time this week.

From time to time, we also get the chance to experience Madrid's traditions and Spain's culture without traveling too far. Today, we took a short busride to a pueblo ouside Madrid called Chincon. A medieval marketplace festival was taking place there to celebrate Carnaval, the Mardi Gras type celebration that covers Spain throughout this week. Costumes are popular, and Carnaval has become a bit like our Halloween. In Chincon today, the marketplace was full of artisans with awesome handmade products, a falcon trainer, and a band of wandering minstrels. A medieval jester kept trying to joke around with my friend Emily and get her to buy him things. It was hilarious. Then, we took a short donkey ride around town on the "Burro Taxi." After seeing the sights and walking around for a couple of hours, I was hungry enough to try the Sopa Castellano (Castilian soup, consisting more of fat than meat, I think) that they were selling in one-euro bowls from one of the tents. It wasn't bad, as long as I didn't look at it. It was definitely a fun day trip.

Tonight, there's a parade here in Madrid to celebrate carnaval. The sightseeing today has been a welcome change from studying all day yesterday, since midterm exams are coming up this week. It's hard to believe my time in Spain is nearly half-way over. Every day in Madrid makes me enjoy thesubtle aspects of the lifestyle here in different ways. Daily life in Spain provides a completely different perspective than just traveling as a tourist, and it's wonderful.